Photo: Martijn Vonk / UnsplashVaranasi
Uttar Pradesh, India
One of the world's oldest living cities, where life and ritual play out on the stone steps of the Ganga. Intense, crowded, and unforgettable.
- Backpacker / day
- ₹1,300–2,300
- Mid-range / day
- ₹4,700–9,000
- Best time
- October to March
- Ideal length
- 2–4 days
- Gateway
- Varanasi airport (VNS) or Varanasi Junction railway station
Varanasi (also Banaras or Kashi) runs along a crescent of the Ganga, lined with ghats: stone steps where people bathe, pray, do laundry, play cricket, and cremate their dead. Behind them lies a maze of lanes too narrow for cars, full of temples, sweet shops, and silk weavers.
The best way to understand the city is slowly: a boat on the river at sunrise, a walk along the ghats, and the evening Ganga aarti. Stay near the ghats rather than in the newer city so you can walk to all of it.
Day by day
3-day itinerary
₹3,900–6,900per person on a backpacker budget (estimate), excluding travel to get there
- 1
Day 1: The ghats and the evening aarti
Walk from Assi Ghat to Dashashwamedh Ghat along the river, then watch the evening Ganga aarti from the steps or a boat.
- 2
Day 2: Sunrise boat and the old city
A sunrise boat ride, the morning rituals on the ghats, then the lanes around Kashi Vishwanath Temple and a food walk.
- 3
Day 3: Sarnath
Half a day at Sarnath, where the Buddha gave his first sermon: the Dhamek Stupa, the ruins, and the museum (closed on Fridays). Back for a quieter evening at Assi Ghat.
When to go
- Jan★ Best
- Feb★ Best
- Mar★ Best
- Apr—
- May—
- Jun—
- Jul—
- Aug—
- Sep—
- Oct★ Best
- Nov★ Best
- Dec★ Best
- Oct–Mar: BestPleasant days and the festival season, including Dev Deepawali, when the ghats are lit with thousands of lamps (usually November). Dense fog in December and January can delay trains and flights.
- Apr–Jun: AvoidVery hot, often above 40°C. Explore only early morning and evening.
- Jul–Sep: MixedMonsoon raises the river over the lower ghats, and boat rides are often suspended when the water is high.
Getting there
- By air
- Varanasi's airport at Babatpur is about 25 km from the ghats, with flights from Delhi, Mumbai, Bengaluru, and other cities.
- By train
- Varanasi Junction and Banaras stations are closest to the city; Pt. Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Junction, about 17 km away, has many more long-distance trains. There are fast day trains from Delhi.
- By road
- Buses connect Varanasi with Lucknow, Prayagraj, and Bodh Gaya. Within the old city you'll walk; autos and e-rickshaws stop at the edge of the lanes.
Budget per person per day
| Item | Backpacker | Mid-range |
|---|---|---|
| Stay (guesthouse near the ghats) | ₹600–1,200 | ₹2,500–5,000 |
| Food | ₹300–600 | ₹800–1,300 |
| Local transport (e-rickshaw, auto) | ₹150–300 | ₹600–1,200 |
| Boats, entry and extras | ₹250–500 | ₹800–1,500 |
| Typical day | ₹1,300–2,300 | ₹4,700–9,000 |
Agree the price of a boat ride before you get in; shared boats are much cheaper than a private one. Street food and sweets are some of the best value in India.
Highlights
Ganga aarti
Priests with fire lamps and chanting at Dashashwamedh Ghat every evening.
Sunrise on the river
The ghats at their calmest, with bathers, prayers, and soft light.
Sarnath
A peaceful Buddhist site about 10 km from the city.
Banarasi food
Kachori-sabzi breakfasts, thick lassi, and malaiyyo in winter.
Practical tips
- Cremation ghats
- Manikarnika and Harishchandra ghats are places of mourning. Don't photograph cremations, and be wary of people who offer 'tours' and then ask for donations.
- Temple security
- Phones, bags, and cameras usually aren't allowed inside Kashi Vishwanath Temple; use the lockers and expect queues.
- Crowds and touts
- The lanes and ghats are busy and chaotic. Book your guesthouse directly and ignore unsolicited guides.
Varanasi FAQs
How many days do I need in Varanasi?
Two to three days covers the ghats, a sunrise boat, the aarti, the old city, and Sarnath without rushing.
When is the Ganga aarti in Varanasi?
Every evening around sunset at Dashashwamedh Ghat, with a smaller morning ceremony at Assi Ghat.
Is Varanasi good for budget travellers?
Yes. Guesthouses near the ghats, street food, and walking keep many travellers under ₹2,000 a day.
Guide reviewed September 2026. Costs are estimates, not live prices. Check current prices, permits, weather, safety advice and schedules before you travel.